Monday, September 23, 2024

Santa Rita Wines from Chile

Founded in 1880, Viña Santa Rita epitomizes a harmonious blend of innovation and traditional winemaking, producing artisanal wines sourced from their expansive 3,500-hectare vineyards that span from the Limari Valley, in the north to the Maule Valley in the south. The winery produces several wine ranges, including Floresta, reviewed in this post, plus also Viña Carmen in Chile and Doña Paula in Mendoza, Argentina.

Sebastian Labbe, acclaimed as one of the top 100 enologists worldwide by Drinks Business magazine, oversees the production of Viña Santa Rita's premium wines, which are sold both domestically and worldwide in countries such as South Korea, Brazil, Ireland, and the US. The Floresta line, introduced in 2004 and revamped under Labbe's stewardship in 2017, focuses on grapes sourced from selected plots within Santa Rita's own vineyards. This approach allows for a unique interpretation of classic varieties, capturing each terroir's distinctive qualities. Labbe, advocates minimal winemaking intervention, by championing for early harvesting to preserve acidity and fruitiness, usage of natural yeasts and new oak judiciously to enhance fruit characteristics and to introduce subtle spicy notes, employing whole cluster fermentation to enhance freshness and moderate alcohols levels and opting out of fining and filtering to preserve his wines’ inherent qualities. His winemaking philosophy is aimed to highlight tension and elegance across all of his fine wines.

Floresta Chardonnay 2022 ($25) Sourced from three different plots in the renowned cool-climate Limari Valley, known for being one of the best areas to grow varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The combination of the influence of the Pacific ocean, located only 27 meters away from the vineyards plus the calcareous soils, rich in marine fossils yield an elegant white, made in Burgundian style. This is 100% Chardonnay, fully fermented in barriques with natural yeasts. 50% of it undergoes malolactic fermentation, plus up to 5 months of battonage or aging in lees.  This elegant and textured white showcases vibrant citric notes complemented by aromas of green apple and yellow pear, embodying the elegance and minerality typical of Chilean coastal Chardonnays.

Floresta Carménère 2022 ($25) is a single vineyard wine, from the Apalta Valley, the epicenter of Carménère in Colchagua. Made with fruit from 90 year old vines planted in granitic soils, this red was fermented and aged entirely in concrete vats without any oak influence. Labbe explains how his Carménère is different from others in the market, mostly due to the lack of pyrazines, so while the wine has green herbal notes, typical of this variety, it is not overtly vegetal. By closely monitoring the organoleptic maturity of the grapes, he produces a Carménère that is fruit forward, meaty and rich with blackberry, blueberry and cassis aromas. With balanced acidity and soft yet very present tannins that make this wine approachable and easy to drink, contributing further to its appeal. 

Floresta Cabernet Franc 2022 ($25), is another single vineyard red, made from fruit sourced this time, from the Alto Jahuel in Maipo, where the winery is located. This wine undergoes fermentation in concrete vats and matures for 14 months in second hand used oak barrels. The result is a ripe Cabernet Franc that is very floral and fresh, full of red fruit notes of raspberry, red cherry, cedar, and a hint of lead pencil. The palate is beefy with grippy tannins that need a couple of years to soften up, yet this was a complete (pleasant) surprise to me, as I’m not a fan of this grape variety.

Floresta Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($25) is sourced from hillside vineyards in Alto Jahuel, planted at 637 meters above sea level with a southwest exposure. This optimal location ensures ample sunlight for vine maturation, complemented by cool mountain breezes at night to preserve acidity. The wine was fermented in concrete and stainless steel vats, with natural yeasts, followed by 14 months of aging in second hand French oak. This medium plus Cabernet Sauvignon displays lovely black cherry and ripe black plums notes, with graphite, cassis and cedar hints. 

Triple C 2021 ($40) represents Viña Santa Rita's pinnacle Bordeaux-style blend, where Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure, Cabernet Franc the fruit and freshness and Carménère the tannins and spices. The blend for triple C varies each vintage. For 2021, Labbe chose a dominant Cabernet Sauvignon component (50%), complemented by Cabernet Franc (42%) and a touch of Carmenere (8%). Aged for 18 months in a blend of new and used French oak barrels, it exudes richness and structure, with layers of black fruits: cassis, blueberry, ripe blackberry all nuanced by allspice aromatics. Robust yet balanced, it promises longevity and evolving complexity over the next 15-20 years.

Finally, the last wine was Pewen Carménère 2022 ($40), sourced from 100-year-old vines rooted in granitic soils. It undergoes aging in both old and new French oak for 18 months. This is indeed a Powerbomb red, concentrated yet very refreshing.  It unveils intense flavors of blackberry, ripe plum, and dark chocolate, supported by lively acidity and remarkably silky tannins, that culminate in a long, lingering finish. Truly outstanding!

This fine selection from Viña Santa Rita exemplifies Labbe's commitment to crafting wines that celebrate Chilean terroir nuances, while showcasing the intrinsic qualities of each varietal.  Do let me know if you try any of these, by tagging me on my Insta. Until the next one, Cheers! Silvina.

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