What is Botrytis Cinerea?
Botrytis Cinerea, also known as noble rot, is a fascinating fungus and produces one of nature’s most delicious accidents. It develops when grapes remain on the vine longer than expected, and are exposed to the perfect combination of high humidity and morning mists from nearby bodies of water. This creates an ideal environment for noble rot to thrive, spreading its spores and transforming the grapes in a unique way.
Faced with this peculiar sight—grapes shriveled like raisins, covered in a fine black fuzz— (see pic below). Winemakers had a choice: discard the entire vintage or embrace the magic. The answer was to turn these funny-looking grapes into something extraordinary: a luscious, intensely sweet wine unlike any other.
So the fungus impacts the grapes by drawing out all of their water, practically dehydrating them, while at the same time, it concentrates their sugars and alters their acid composition. This transformation, however, doesn't occur evenly across all the berries. In most cases, the process unfolds over several days or even weeks.
As a result, harvesters must meticulously hand-pick the botrytized affected grapes in multiple passes through the vineyard—a time-consuming and labor-intensive task. Once the perfectly affected grapes are harvested, pressing them releases an exceptionally sweet juice that ferments at a very slow pace due to its high sugar content. As fermentation progresses, the yeast eventually dies off at around 15% alcohol, leaving behind a luxurious wine with 80 to 160 grams of residual sugar per liter—a hallmark of its decadence.
Ideal conditions for producing Botrytis-affected wines exist in select regions around the world. Notable examples include Bordeaux appellations such as Sauternes, Loupiac, Cadillac, and Barsac. In the Loire Valley, appellations like Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, and Coteaux du Layon are known for these unique wines.
Beyond France, Hungarian Tokaji stands as a legendary example of noble rot wines. Alsace Sélection de Grains Nobles, as well as the German and Austrian classifications of Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, also showcase the magic of this natural phenomenon.
The grape varieties used for Botrytis-affected wines vary by region. In Bordeaux, Sémillon dominates, while Chenin Blanc is the star in the Loire Valley. Furmint is the primary grape in Tokaji, whereas Alsace relies on Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Muscat. In Germany and Austria, winemakers craft these exceptional wines using Riesling or Welschriesling.
Stylistically, these exquisite dessert wines are defined by their luscious texture, vibrant acidity that balances their sweetness, and medium-plus to high alcohol content. On the nose, they exude captivating aromas of dried tropical fruits such as apricot, quince, pineapple, mango, orange peel, and coconut. These are complemented by delicate floral notes of honeysuckle—a contribution from the noble rot—along with enticing hints of lanolin, vanilla, caramel, saffron, and ginger.
Given the intensive labor involved in their production, these wines tend to be pricey, with quality samples starting at $75+ per bottle, less if you buy half bottles.
My wine recommendation:
The wine I'm recommending today is not only the best wine of Sauternes, but also one of the best dessert wines in the world! Besides this, Château D’ Yquem was the only winery classified as 1st growth in the Bordeaux 1855 wine classification.
Château D’ Yquem 2017 $427 (per bottle)
A true collector’s item, this extraordinary white wine demands an average of six meticulous vineyard passes to harvest only the finest botrytized fruit. With exceptionally low yields of just 9 hectoliters per hectare, Château d’Yquem undergoes four gentle pressings to extract its intensely concentrated juice. The wine is then fully fermented in new French oak barrels and aged for an additional 26 months, ensuring its complexity and depth.
This remarkable sample boasts aromas of dried apricot and caramelized quince, elegantly intertwined with notes of honey and marzipan. Full-bodied and exquisitely balanced, it delivers a long, vibrant finish, showcasing the perfect harmony of sweetness, acidity, and pure fruit expression.
An unparalleled treat to savor and enjoy at least once in a lifetime. Cheers! Silvina
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