Tuesday, April 16, 2024

Matching Spicy Foods with Wines

Spicy foods such as Mexican, Indian or Thai are so delicious, but finding a wine to match these is sometimes a challenge, especially if you prefer to drink mostly Chardonnay (dry oaky whites) or your typical Napa red (a tannic powerbomb), which are not exactly the best pairings. The problem is that heat clashes with oak, making your wines dryer and harsher, and tannins amplify your perception of heat and spice.  Alcohol,on the other hand, enhances the spiciness, increasing the heat even further, so stay away from that. I guess your best bet for spicy foods is to choose wines with relatively low alcohol, fruity or very aromatic, with some acidity to cleanse the palate, and ideally with some sweetness to counteract the heat by toning it down.

Some of the best matches for spicy foods are German Rieslings, normally low in alcohol, these wines are very refreshing and if you see the words 
Spätlese or Auslese on the labels that means they also have much desired sweetness. Alsatian, Italian or German Gewürztraminer are also a good choice, but keep in mind that Alsatian samples have a bit more alcohol than German and Italian ones. Other good choices are floral wines such as Greek Moschofilero, Argentinian Torrontés, or Alsatian Muscat; these have plenty of fruity aromas, but are also light and refreshing. If you can’t find those, an Albariño from Spain or Austrian Grüner Veltliner could also work. If you prefer to drink rosé, fruity versions are best, such as those from the new world. If you prefer a red, I would choose either something fruity or spicy, such as Beaujolais Nouveau or Villages, Barbera D’ Alba or Dolcetto, which have plenty of fruit and are usually light-bodied. Bubbles will be great with spicy foods, as they normally refresh your palate (this is why beer is often chosen as the perfect pairing for Mexican or Indian dishes), but I wouldn’t match spicy foods with dry Champagne or sparkling; as extra dryness will make spices harsher,  I would opt instead for something fruity or off-dry, such as a Moscato, a fruity Cava or Prosecco. Surprisingly, Apple Cider can be a great pairing too, the natural sweetness of apples can help balance spiciness. As always, remember to check the intensity of both your dish and wine, so that they always compliment each other and none overpowers the other.



My recommendations: all the samples chosen have a few common denominators: all are served chilled, they have low or no alcohol, plenty of fruit and some sweetness, making them ideal pairings for your spicy dishes.

Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Estate QbA Riesling from Old Vines 2022 $21.00
A 100% Riesling from 50 year old vines, estate grown in the Mosel, aka Riesling’s top territory in Germany. This focused, light bodied white is fermented with natural yeasts. Showing zippy acidity that multiplies the elegance in this refreshing and very floral off-dry wine, saturated with beautiful ripe peach and mango notes. The alcohol is on the low side at only 10% ABV.

Cava Paul Cheneau Brut Reserva, NV $15.99
A classic Cava blend of 40% Xarel·lo, 30% Macabeo, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Parellada, this floral and elegant Cava shows notes of ripe pineapple and gala apples, with citrusy grapefruit and a long, creamy finish. It was aged on its lees for 12 months.

Cavit Moscato 2022 $11.99

Made from Muscat grapes grown in the Pavia region, this slightly frizzante white, features intense aromas of rose, orange blossom and white peach. Light bodied and off dry, with a delicious and vibrant finish.

Duché de Longueville French Sparkling Cider $13
Growing up I drank a lot of Argentinean cider during the holidays, so I was excited to try one made in France. This cider is completely non-alcoholic and made with apples grown in the region of Normandy. On the palate it’s truly refined, artisanal and very refreshing, reminds me of the  fine ciders from Asturias, Spain.
Cheers! Silvina.



 #spicyfoods #winesforspicyfoods #thoughtsoflawina #winewednesday #drinkupamerica

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

Mencía, the grape you should be drinking now!

There’s nothing more boring than always drinking the same wine styles, especially when there are so many varieties to try. Something like Mencía, a grape with a fantastic flavor profile and a very affordable price. 

Originally from the Iberian Peninsula, two countries dispute the origins of this grape. On one side Mencía reigns in North Western Spain, where we can find some of the best samples, and more than 9,000 hectares of it, planted in the appellations of Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra, Monterrei and Valdeorras. Yet, DNA tests proved that Mencía is genetically similar to Portuguese Jaen, leading us to think that it may have been born in the Dão region of Portugal, instead. 

Known for its vibrant acidity and freshness, Mencía produces medium to medium plus everyday reds, much depending on where it’s planted. Hillside vineyards of Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra (in Spain), which are rich in slate and quartz, provide beefier wines with mineral notes than those from fruit planted on the flat lands with clay soils. Plus, complex samples of Mencía usually come from very old vines that are naturally low yielding, producing wines that have plenty of concentration. These plantings were rediscovered in the late 1990s and early 2000s by top producers such as Raúl Pérez and Alvaro Palacios (also known for producing wonderful wines in Priorat), both leading to a revival of Mencía in Spain.

Mencía is early budding and mid ripening, and it favors a mild continental climate of warm days with cool nights. In the cellar, producers opt to use carbonic maceration to keep its fruitiness and floral aromas, and to avoid excessive oak that may kill its fragrance. This is mostly above all, because Mencía wines are very aromatic and flavorful with delicious red fruit notes that include sour cherry, redcurrant, and pomegranate, as well as herbaceous notes of mint and thyme. Often compared with Pinot Noir, Mencía also transmits its terroir, so much that we can easily find notes of crushed gravel, graphite or chalk in its wines.

Stylistically, Mencía wines are spicy with supple structures but never a powerbomb themselves, exactly the type of red I could drink every night. Enjoy them when young, ideally within 5 years of release, while their wild red fruit is still fresh.  Pair them with charcuterie, but pasta, duck and veal dishes will pair wonderfully too!

My recommendations: 

First, a big thank you to Msgr Touton Selections for sending these wonderful samples. As I said earlier, the best samples of Mencía come from Spain and especially from the Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras appellations, so check your labels for those.

Flavium Selección Mencía 2021, D.O. Bierzo, $12.99

Very appealing red with a lovely nose of red currants, macerated cherries and plum, crunchy textured with grippy yet fine tannins.


Alvarez de Toledo Mencía Roble 2021, D.O. Bierzo, $13.99

Fresh and aromatic, showing sour cherry, pomegranate and bramble fruit, with herbal hints and very supple tannins.


Marqués de Montejos Single Vineyard Mencía 2020, VT Castilla y León  $13.99

Attractive with vivid fruit that include ripe raspberry and cranberry jam notes. Savory, with creamy tannins and a smoky long finish.

 

Hoping you will soon give Mencía a try ! Cheers, Silvina

 #mencia #thoughtsoflawina #winesfromspain #bierzo #winewednesday #drinkupamerica

Tuesday, February 6, 2024

In Pursuit of Love in Bottle: 5 to try this Valentine's Day!

Whether you are looking to treat your sweetheart or yourself, Valentine’s Day is a time to show your partner how much you care about them, but also a good opportunity to Wine indulge! Here are 5 recommendations that will surely impress your loved ones, besides being perfect pairings for any romantic meal.

Any Valentine’s should start with a fantastic sparkling wine, such as this Bichot Crémant Rosé NV, a delicious Crémant de Bourgogne, featuring a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay grapes. It displays fruitful raspberry and strawberry notes, with a touch of zesty citrus and brioche hints. Elegant and crisp, its lively mousse linger into a lovely finish. $31

Crios Sustentia Chardonnay 2022 is an alternative for white wine lovers, but also for those that are trying to lose weight or who want to consume less alcohol this year. This wine has only 9% Abv vs your regular 14% of most wines and only 90 calories per glass, but all of the flavor! Made by Susana Balbo the top female winemaker of Argentina, this refreshing white is made from 100% Chardonnay from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, showcasing tropical notes of pineapple and mango and refreshing floral hints. $18.99

In the mood for something spicy? Try the Varvaglione 12 e Mezzo Primitivo 2020 from Puglia, a 100% Primitivo (aka Zinfandel) red. Velvety and mouth filling, it displays blackberry and raisins with hints of licorice, chocolate and spicy cinnamon. Certified organic, it has very balanced alcohol, surprisingly as most Zinfandels I have ever tasted were usually 16% and up and overripe; which makes this wine not only refreshing but truly different. $15.99

Are you feeling extra romantic? Yet your wine palate tends more to the classic blends? Try Château Amour 2016,  an expressive Médoc (Bordeaux) red featuring equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. A classic and very seductive wine shows flavorful black/red currants and plum notes, with tobacco and savory coffee hints.  Polished  and medium-bodied, it integrates fruit, acidity and very supple tannins. Bonus, this a Bordeaux true value at only $22. 

And finally, Calcu Fotem Cabernet Sauvignon 2018,  a powerbomb with lots of personality and style from Colchagua, Chile. It shows explosive black cherries and plums with a touch of herbal green pepper notes. Very textured and structured with a solid length and nice cigar box hints on the finish.  $55


 Hoping you will soon give all these a try. Happy Valentine’s Day to all, cheers! Silvina.

#Valentine’sDay #thoughtsoflawina #Valentine’swines #drinkupamerica

Tuesday, January 9, 2024

Wines of Altitude

Great wines share some common denominators, factors that directly impact their greatness. Among these, Altitude. Altitude makes great wines and it has always been a key element in vineyard selection, affecting wine style, ripeness, freshness, acidity, tannin and flavor.

All of us know that a successful wine usually comes from the right matching of location, climate and vine variety, a concept known as Terroir. Certain grapes require extra or less warmth, specific types of soils, sunlight and good drainage. Solar radiation, temperature variation, ventilation and winds all come into play when growing grapes. Depending on location and climate, altitude affects the amount of direct sunlight that vines receive, which affects their phenolic concentration and acidity. Altitude wines normally have more weight, acidity and structure from the valley floor counterparts, a direct result of the amount of sunlight they receive.  Sunlight increases with elevation, as UV rays intensify with each 1,000 feet increase. Sunlight and wind exposure also affect tannins, forcing the grapes to produce thick grape skins that provide color and structure to wines. Thicker skins protect grapes from extra solar radiation, from brave winds and from temperature changes that take place at higher elevations. Here is where the famous nocturnal/ diurnal shift of warm days and cool nights is important, because it allows grapes to keep their acidity adding complexity and elegance, which are essential in fine wine production. The temperature shift also promotes a long and slow maturation that will allow grapes to develop more compounds, expressing even more grape flavors.


Altitude also affects drainage, though storms can hit these vineyards hard, because of their inclination, water usually drains to the valley floors, reducing moisture and preventing fungal diseases. The lack of water will force vines to dig their roots deeper into the floor, gathering all types of nutrients and minerals. The water stressed plants usually focus their attention on the development of fruit and not so much on green foliage, which happens with water excess. Of course elevation and inclination has its costs, as most work has to be done by hand.  And all of  this is, not even considering climate change and its effects on viticulture. As global temperatures rise, growers won’t have a choice but to go higher, in order to continue creating the styles of the past when vintages weren’t so warm. This happens because temperatures drop one degree Celsius for each 100 meters of altitude increase.  This is also the reason why winemakers are currently experimenting by planting vines at different altitudes.


But, what is considered a high altitude vineyard? For Europeans high altitude vineyards are those planted at 500+ meters (about 1,640 feet), however in South America where we can find the highest of vineyards (most of which are in Argentina), the minimum starts higher, at 1000+ meters (about 3,280 feet). 


And now to my 3 recommendations from Bodegas Colomé. Founded in 1831 in the heart of the Calchaquí Valley, in Salta, Argentina, Bodegas Colomé is not only the oldest commercial winery but also owns the World’s highest commercial vineyards, planted at 10,300 feet. What can one expect from wines coming from such high altitudes? For starters, deeper colors, concentrated fruit, elegance and fresh acidity and in the case of reds, great tannic structure. Try them and you will discover this is indeed true. And if you have extra $$$ to spare, also try their fabulous flagship wine: Colomé Salta Altura Máxima 2014 tasted at the last Wine Spectator event, an outstanding super Malbec from the highest vineyard of the world. $130


Bodega Colomé Torrontés 2023, $14

Torrontés, the floral and exquisite white grape from Argentina, produces an enticing wine from grapes grown in La Brava vineyard planted at 5,575 feet. This full bodied white displays delicious rose, geranium and grapefruit notes, with lively acidity and a very vibrant finish.

Bodega Colomé Estate Malbec 2021, $27

This delicious 100% Malbec was made with grapes grown from four different vineyards featuring altitudes of 5,575, 7,545, 8,530 and 10,300 feet respectively. This seductive tinto shows violet, cassis, blueberry preserves, dusted cocoa and black pepper notes. Very polished, with the right balance of fruit, tannin and length. 

Bodega Colomé Auténtico 2021, $42

This single vineyard 100 % Malbec is harvested from one of Colomé's best sites located at 7,545 feet. Auténtico is savory, displaying succulent and ripe black currant, black cherries and plum pudding notes mixed with spicy clove, chocolate and graphite hints. A good combination of concentration and finesse. 

 Hoping you will soon give these all a try! Cheers, Silvina

#BodegaColomé #thoughtsoflawina #Altitudewines #Altitude #drinkupamerica #winewednesday

Tuesday, December 12, 2023

Overlooked Sparklings: Crémants

I have to admit it, I love Crémants! not only because I love drinking bubbles any time/ any day but because they are a great value, with bottles costing less than $25 each, Crémants cost exactly half of any bottle of NV Champagne. 

Of course the same can be said of Cava and Prosecco, some of which are even cheaper, but what makes Crémants so special is their finesse and quality! Though, they are not exactly French Champagne, but very close and in some cases, as we will see, made from the same grape varieties. But most importantly, they are produced in appellations known for their wonderful still wines, a direct result of the combination of the right terroir, viticulture and winemaking practices, and with an AOC behind guaranteeing not only the quality, but also the typicity of every wine produced.


But what are Crémants?

The French created this term to separate Champagne from all the other sparkling wines made in France.  Yet, Crémants share a few things in common with Champagne, from starters, Crémants are sparkling wines made with a second fermentation in a bottle using the Traditional or Champenoise method. But, Crémants are aged for less time. By law, Crémants must mature on their lees for a minimum of 9 months, similar to the aging of Cavas in Spain and less time than the 15 months required for Champagne. Like in Champagne, the fruit used to make Crémants must be hand harvested for this purpose, and whole bunch pressed with a limited must extraction of a maximum of 100 hectoliters per each 150 kgs of grapes, almost the same as in Champagne. According to Fédération Nationale des producteurs et élaborateurs de Crémants, the bureau who regulates Crémant production, almost 84 million bottles are produced every year. These can be either white or rosé and must come from 8 different appellations that include the following regions: Alsace, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Die, Jura, Limoux, Loire & Savoie, all shown in the map below.



Let's explore the regions a bit further!

Crémant de Bourgogne

This is Chardonnay and Pinot Noir’s native territory, the same grape varieties that are used to make fine Champagne, are used to make Crémant here. Their terroir include soils such as limestone, granite, marl and chalk, which produce some of the most coveted table wines in the world. Let’s not forget that Bourgogne is located south of Champagne and enjoys its cool climate conditions, producing delicious acidity needed to create elegant sparkling wines. Bourgogne produces about 19 million bottles of Crémant  a year in 4 different styles: White Crémant de Bourgogne that could be a blend of Chardonnay, Aligoté and other white grapes. Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs, made from 100 % Chardonnay, Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs, made from 100% Pinot Noir and Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne,  made from Pinot Noir on its own or blended with Gamay.


In 2013, two categories were created according to the length of the time these wines age on their lees, the longer the aging sur lie, the bigger the complexity and quality of the wines. Eminent wines are aged for a minimum of 24 months on their lees before dégorgement, while Grand Eminent wines are aged for 36 months, the same time that is required to age Vintage Champagne.

Stylistically, white wines display brioche notes combined with floral, citrus and mineral aromas, Blanc de Blancs show green apples, peach or citrus notes while rosé wines feature red fruit aromas such as raspberry, cherry, blackcurrant and strawberry.


Crémant de Loire

The Loire Valley produces about 17 million bottles of Crémant per year from vineyards located in the towns of Anjou, Saumur, Touraine and Chevery. Since making Crémant from Sauvignon Blanc is not allowed by law, producers use mostly the other important white grape of the Loire: Chenin Blanc, while.  Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir are used mostly for rosé Crémant. 

Due to their northerly location, the whole Loire Valley can be considered to have a cool continental climate, with variations. Appellations in the east are influenced by the sea and closer to a maritime climate (mild and humid)  but as one goes inland to the west the climate changes. Soils also vary per region, and can include the following: sandstone, shale, chalk, gravel, sand or clay with silica. Acidity is noticeable in all Loire Crémants which most definitely will contribute to their finesse and freshness. Whites often display citrus (lime or grapefruit notes), quince, chamomile, white flowers and nutty notes while rosés showcase red fruits (red cherry and raspberry) with chalky minerality. 


Crémant D’ Alsace

Alsace produces more Crémant than any of the other 7 appellations, averaging almost 33 million bottles per year.  Crémant d’ Alsace can be made as a blend or as varietal using the following grapes: Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Auxerroirs and Pinot Noir.  That said, white Crémant is mostly made from Pinot Blanc, while Pinot Noir is used to make rosé Crémant. The influence of the Vosges mountains creates dry and sunny conditions, that combined with gneiss, marl clay, marl sandstone, shale and granitic soils, result in grapes of great quality and solid acidity. Alsace Crémants are pure and focused featuring aromas of yellow pears, green plum, white peach and brioche notes. 


Crémant de Limoux

Located in the Languedoc, South of France, Limoux produces  5.8 millions bottles of white and rosé Crémants. Limoux is very important from a historic point of view, as it is the home of the first French sparkling wine, ever produced, at an Abbey in Saint Hilaire in 1531, predating any records of Champagne production.


When dealing with Crémant de Limoux, it is important not to confuse it with Blanquette de Limoux, a sparkling wine from the same region, and also made with the Traditional method, but with a different grape blend. Blanquette de Limoux is mostly made of Mauzac, while Crémant de Limoux is mostly made from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc with a tiny percentage of Mauzac and Pinot Noir, that by law should be less than 20%.

The climate in Limoux is Mediterranean but  moderated by refreshing oceanic influences, altitude also guarantees cool nights as Limoux is located at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains. The soils are rich in chalk, sand and clay.

Stylistically, Crémant de Limoux showcases ripe citrus (orange zest, lemon pudding) and orchard fruit (white peach and apricots), with bright acidity and hints of spice and toasted bread.


Crémant de Bordeaux

Produces about 6.5 million bottles per year. The climate here is maritime, influenced by the sea and humid, featuring mild winters and sunny summers. The grapes used here are Semillon with some Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Rosé Crémant is made from red varieties including all the locals: Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, and tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carménère.


Crémant du Jura

Produces 1.7 millions of bottles per year. This appellation enjoys a semi continental climate with cold winters,  warm summers and mild autumns. The soils are rich in chalk, clay and shale. Crémant is made of 4 grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard.  

White Crémant must be made of 70% Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau. Rosé Crémant is mostly made from Pinot Noir, with some Poulsard or Trousseau.


Crémant de Savoie

Produces only 350,000 bottles per year. The Crémant de Savoie appellation is located to the east of Lyon. Crémants de Savoie are made from 60% Jacquère and Altesse grapes (local varieties), the rest could be complemented by Chasselas, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay. Each blend must have at least 20% of black grapes. Soils vary featuring limestone and clay with limestone, which provide finesse to the wines. 


Crémant de Die

This region produces only 202,000 bottles per year, this appellation is located on both riverbanks of the Drome river in South Eastern France. 

Crémant de Die was originally made of only one grape variety: Clairette but these days a percentage of Aligoté and Muscat Blanc are also allowed in the blend. 

Because of its southern location, it’s dry and sunny but with cool nights. With vineyards located at some of the highest altitudes in France, closer to 700 meters and near the Vercors mountains.  Soils are rich in clay and limestone. 


And now to my recommendations. Though 8 regions produce Crémants in France, unfortunately not all of them can be found in the US. The ones most widely available are: Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant Limoux, Crémant de Loire and Crémant D’ Alsace.  I chose my three favorites, hoping that you, my dear reader, will be able to enjoy them during the holidays!


Bichot Crémant de Bourgogne, NV $31

Domaine Bichot is known for producing some of the best red Burgundy wines. They also make a white and rosé Crémant. Their white Crémant is light and crisp, featuring tart green apple, ginger and lemon zest aromatics. It is made from equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 


Cote Mas de Crémant Limoux Rosé, NV $21

Showing a floral bouquet of white roses, with blood orange and peach notes. This seductive Rosé offers a lively fine mousse that invites you to keep sipping. Made from 70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc and 10% Pinot Noir.


Amirault Les Quarterons Crémant de Loire, NV $ 31.99

Made from 100% Chenin Blanc and aged for 18 months on its lees, this enticing Crémant is packed of fruit and acidity, including green pear and grapefruit with brioche and honey hints. Simply delicious!



Wishing all of my readers a Healthy and Happy Holiday season and Happy 2024! Cheers, Silvina.

#thoughtsoflawina #WineWednesday #Crémants  #sparklingwines #drinkupamerica