Tuesday, January 14, 2025

Wine Cellaring and Collecting

Let's face it, most people buy wine to drink and enjoy right away. However, there’s a smaller segment of wine enthusiasts who purchase wines with the intention of cellaring them for the future. These collectors often do so for two main reasons: they want to enjoy the wine at its peak, or they buy wines as an investment.

When buying wines to cellar, the intention is to allow them to evolve and reach their optimal drinking window, often many years after their purchase. Certain wines, especially reds like Bordeaux, Barolo, or Rioja, are known for their aging potential. Over time, the flavors and textures of the wines mature, becoming more complex and nuanced, offering an experience that is different from drinking them when they are young.

On the other hand, some collectors view wine more as an investment. These individuals purchase wines that they believe will appreciate in value over time. Much like stocks or mutual funds, wine can be seen as an asset, with certain bottles or vintages expected to fetch high prices in the future.

Whether you’re cellaring wine to enjoy its evolution or investing in bottles that could increase in value, wine collecting has become both a hobby and a potential financial strategy for many. Unfortunately, the path of wine collecting/cellaring is not cheap, for starters you need to have space, where to put the wines, where wines will be kept at a constant temperature (ideally at 55º F), humidity and without vibrations. Some people build cellars in their homes, others buy portable cellars (like the Eurocave), or rent wine lockers. Whatever you choose, storing wine costs money that needs to be added to your final estimate.

Keep in mind that as a wine ages, particularly red wines with tannins and structure, it undergoes various transformations. Initially, the wine may be tight, with pronounced tannins and bright fruit flavors. Over time, these tannins soften, and the wine becomes rounder and smoother, its mouthfeel more integrated and balanced. The fruit aromas that are prominent in the wine’s youth, such as fresh berries or citrus, begin to fade and evolve into more complex, secondary aromas. These can include descriptors such as truffles, leather, meat, forest floor, and earthy notes. These changes occur as the wine’s chemical compounds continue to interact, and over time, the tannins polymerize (bond together), making them feel softer, while acidity and fruit flavors recede, making room for more savory, complex aromas and flavors. This shift is why many wines, especially reds, are best enjoyed after they've had some time in the cellar.

In essence, reductive aging allows wines to develop a whole new spectrum of flavors and textures, moving away from the fresh fruitiness of their youth and transitioning into something much deeper, richer, and often more complex. For wine enthusiasts and collectors, this transformation is one of the joys of aging wines—experiencing the evolution of a bottle over time as it matures into something unique.

I have a confession to make, one of my best wine experiences was during a Burgundy vertical tasting seminar organized by Wine Spectator. I basically tasted 10 different vintages of the same wine from young to old, which allowed me to see to see how the same wine had evolved in the last 20 years. It was mind blowing!  Smelling and tasting raspberry and red cherry aromas on the young pinot noirs and then seeing how those aromas changed to mushroom, truffles, forest floor and animal must, in the old wines. It was a completely different experience!, and though the wines were delicious when young and highly drinkable, they were much better when they were old.

To cellar wine successfully, a few key elements are needed: acidity, fruit concentration, tannins, and sometimes sugar. While not all of these elements are necessary in every wine, they help ensure the wine will age well and improve over time. For red wines, the primary factors that make a wine suitable for aging are fruit concentration and tannins. Tannins, in particular, play a crucial role in the aging process. When a red wine is young, its tannins can be quite astringent, giving the wine a harsh, puckering feeling. With time, however, the tannins undergo polymerization, where they bond together, softening and making the wine smoother and more drinkable. As the tannins soften, the wine’s fruit flavors can evolve as well, often becoming more integrated and complex. Examples of red wines that improve with age include Barolo, Barbaresco, Bordeaux, high-end California Cabernet Sauvignon, and Vintage Port. These wines are often more difficult to enjoy in their youth because of their high tannin levels, but they evolve into more harmonious, round, and complex wines with time.

For white wines, aging depends more on acidity and sugar levels. Wines like Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) Riesling are excellent examples of white wines that age well because of their high sugar and acidity content. Over time, the wine’s youthful fruity aromas will evolve into more complex, richer flavors such as marzipan, quince, honey, and dry apricot. While some of these notes may be present in the wine when it is young, they will develop and intensify significantly as the wine ages, creating a more layered and complex drinking experience.

If you plan to cellar wines, you need to do some planning, besides finding the space and organizing your collection, you need to decide how much you will invest. My advice is to buy several bottles of the same wine, and reserve some to drink now and some to drink in the future.  And taste it and re-taste it to see how it evolves. Timing a wine’s peak is not always easy, sometimes you wait for too long to find out a wine is on decline (it happened to me a few times) or you open them too soon and when they are not ready.

Always follow the critics, they normally let you know if you should keep or hold a wine and for how long. Vintages here are important, especially if you are cellaring  as an investment, as an excellent vintage will fetch higher prices. Prices vary by brands too, high demand of limited production/boutique wines will push prices up. Provenance of the wines is also very important, so do your research, you are after all investing a lot of money here and there are plenty of counterfeiters out there. Don't forget to keep records and documents. It’s always safer to buy directly from the wineries, taking advantage of wine clubs for example and sales en primeur or wine futures (while the wine is aging at the winery before release). Some hot items, though, will only be available in  live auctions, like those that happen in the US, Hong Kong and the UK, but also online at the following wine houses: Morrell's, Zachy's, Christie's, Sotheby's, etc.


So, who are the blue chips of the wine world? I reviewed some of the offerings in recent catalogs and included some brands for your reference.

Whites: Burgundy Grand Crus from: Comte Lafon, Domaine Leflaive  

German Rieslings: from Egon Muller, R Weil, JJ Prum.

Light Reds: Burgundy Grand Crus from: Domaine de La Romanee Conti, Leroy, Ponsot, Ramonet, Armand Rousseau. 

Big Reds: Bordeaux Left Bank (from 1st Growths: Lafite, Mouton, Margaux, Haut Brion, Latour) and Right bank: from Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Le Pin, Angelus.

California Cabernet Sauvignon: from Harlan,Schrader, Screaming Eagle (most expensive wine sold in auction), Ridge, Bryant Family.

Brunello di Montalcino (Biondi Santi, Soldera, Casanova di Neri),

Hermitage and Cote Rotie (E Guigal La Turque,La Mouline,) Jaboulet La Chapelle, etc.

Ribera del Duero: from Vega Sicilia, Pingus

Australia: from Penfolds Grange, Torbreck Shiraz

Super Tuscans: from Solaia and Tignanello, Sassicaia, Tenuta Ornellaia. 

Barolo and Barbaresco: from Conterno, Giacosa, Gaja. 

Dessert Wines: Vintage Port (Dow's, Graham, Quinta do Noval, etc) and Sauternes (Chateau d'Yquem)


Wow!, look at the prices some of these coveted wines fetched in past auctions:

Chateau D’Yquem 1811 $117,000 (for 1 bottle)

Château Lafite Rothschild 1869 $230,000 (for a lot of 3 bottles)

Armand Rousseau Chambertin 2005 $43,750 (for a 6 bottle case)

I guess we will all need to be billionaires to buy some of these!

Until next one. Cheers! Silvina.


#thoughtsoflawina #winecellaring #winecollecting

Tuesday, December 10, 2024

Californian Sparkling Wines for the Holidays!

Elegance, crispness, and a persistent mousse of bubbles are hallmarks of the world’s finest sparkling wines. While Champagne is often seen as the gold standard, the New World has demonstrated its ability to produce exceptional sparklers, particularly in California’s cooler regions, where vineyards benefit from the refreshing sea breezes of San Pablo Bay.

Domaine Carneros exemplifies this success. Owned by the prestigious Taittinger Champagne house, it showcases how the finesse and craftsmanship of Champagne can be beautifully replicated in the heart of Napa Valley.

Founded in 1987, Domaine Carneros produces its wines exclusively from fruit grown on their six estate vineyards totaling 400 acres. Of these, 250 acres are dedicated to Pinot Noir and 150 acres to Chardonnay, the essential varieties for crafting quality sparkling wines. The estate is renowned for its elegant offerings, including Le Rêve Brut and Rosé, all crafted using the traditional method.

Roederer Estate, another standout producer, was established in 1982 by Jean-Claude Rouzaud, former president of Champagne Louis Roederer in France.

Located on a 580-acre estate in Anderson Valley, just 125 miles north of San Francisco. Roederer Estate uses only estate-grown fruit in all of its blends and employs the traditional method of second fermentation in a bottle in all of its offerings. The addition of oak-aged reserve wines further enhances the complexity and character of their elegant line up. 

My Recommendations are the following selections from these two producers:

Roederer Estate Brut Rosé, NV $39

Roederer Brut L' Ermitage 2017 $75

Domaine Carneros Rosé 2020 $47

Domaine Carneros Brut 2020 $39

Domaine Carneros Le Rêve 2016 $125

Both producers offer styles that go from crisp and citrusy to rich and toasty, reflecting California’s diverse terroirs. Stylistically, California sparkling wines present riper fruit characteristics than typical Champagne while preserving their yeasty/briochy complexity and minerality of fine sparkling wines.

As always, give them a try, and if you do, tag me on Instagram. Cheers! Silvina

#thoughtsoflawina #californiasparkling #roedererestate #domainedecarneros #drinkupamerica

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!

Monday, November 11, 2024

The Southern Rhone: Diversity and Robustness

In contrast to the Northern Rhône, the Southern Rhône boasts a warmer climate, diverse terroirs, and a tradition of blended wines centered around Grenache as the primary grape variety. These blends often include varying proportions of Syrah, Mourvèdre and other local grapes, resulting in wines celebrated for their generous fruit flavors, smooth tannins, and approachability.

The Southern Rhône also holds historical significance on two fronts: firstly, as the unfortunate ground zero for the phylloxera epidemic that devastated European vineyards, and secondly, as the birthplace of the French Appellation system, notably in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This appellation set the standard for all French and European wine regulations, defining geographical limits, quality requirements, minimum alcohol levels, and aging criteria.

Geographically larger than the North, the Southern Rhône also produces a greater quantity of wines, including reds, rosés, whites, and sweet wines. The  region’s Mediterranean climate supports the cultivation of warm climate varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. The soils vary, comprising a blend of clay, sandy limestone and gravel and galets (larger stones, similar in size to a fist but good to retain heat that aids ripening).  Unlike the steep vineyards of the northern Rhône, those in the south are mostly planted on gentle hills near the river, where they benefit from the Mistral, mitigating vineyard diseases but requiring vines to be low trained in goblet fashion to withstand its full force. 

Over 23 grape varieties are permitted here, with Grenache dominating red blends alongside Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan. Whites feature blends of Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains.

Key appellations include:

  • Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Renowned for its bold red wines with complexity and aging potential, these wines feature ripe black fruits: black currants, blueberries, garrigue herbs (rosemary, lavender, etc), spices, leather, game and tar tones. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most esteemed red appellation in the south, competing favorably with the best from the North, like Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie). It has received its name from the relocation of the Papal court to Avignon that happened in the 14th century.  Most Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are blends of Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre (though 13 varieties are allowed in total in this appellation).  
  • Gigondas and Vacqueyras: Produce robust reds with dark berries, herbs, and spices notes. Gigondas leans toward Grenache-dominant blends, while Vacqueyras incorporates more Syrah.

  • Lirac and Tavel: known for vibrant rosés and fruity reds balancing freshness and richness.

  • Côtes du Rhône: represent 70 % of all red Rhone wines produced, with vineyards scattered throughout the region but primarily in the south. These wines  are simple, juicy fruit reds to have every night, most of them offering excellent value.

  • Côtes du Rhône Villages: includes several villages known for producing wines of higher quality than basic Côtes du Rhône. They are often simple blends made from Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre. 

Stylistically, Southern Rhône wines are distinguished by their powerful, full-bodied character, ample alcohol, and concentrated fruit flavors. Whether red, white, or rosé, these wines consistently offer richness and depth, making them versatile partners for a variety of Mediterranean dishes.

My Recommendations: (not all featured in my picture, though)


Domaine Saint Gayan Côtes du Rhône 2020, $19

Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhône Villages 2021,$15.99

Famille Perrin “Les Christins” 2021,Vacqueyras AOC, $29

Domaine de Bosquets “La Colline” 2020, Gigondas AOC, $75

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021,$104

Clos de Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021, $125


Other good producers to try: Clos St Jean, Domaine Giraud, Domaine Le Vieux Télégraphe and Château La Nerthe. Cheers! Silvina.

 


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Tuesday, October 15, 2024

Northern Rhône Wines: Elegance and Expression

The Rhône River, one of France's major waterways, originates in the Alps and flows west, then south through Lake Geneva, before reaching its final destination at the Mediterranean Sea. Along its banks lie two important wine appellations: the Northern and Southern Rhône, each offering diverse terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking traditions, recognized worldwide for yielding bold reds, rosés, and a small percentage of whites.

Nestled along the steep slopes of the Rhône River, between the cities of Vienne and Valence, the Northern Rhône is revered for its boutique appellations and single-varietal wines, made particularly from Syrah, which reigns supreme here, producing wines of unparalleled depth, complexity, and finesse. 

The Northern Rhône features a continental climate with hot summers, cold winters, and ample fall rainfall. Vineyards are planted on steep terraces with granite and slate soils that ensure excellent drainage and heat retention. Most vineyards face south to maximize sun exposure, ideal for ripening Syrah grapes. Small amounts of white wines are also crafted, primarily from Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne. In some appellations, all three of these are also used in minimum percentages as part of red blends.

Stylistically, the Northern Rhône produces some of the world's finest Syrah wines, known for their concentration, full body, and elegant profiles. Influenced by the cool Mistral winds from the north and high altitudes, these wines feature flavors of black fruits like blackberry and plum, complemented by spicy notes of black pepper, violets, leather, and game. The region's whites, particularly Viogniers from Château Grillet and Condrieu, are exceptional though often pricey. Roussanne and Marsanne grapes are also used to make dry whites that offer rich, almost oily textures, featuring aromas of peach, quince, honey and lemon, and showing minerality, balanced acidity, and high alcohol content.

The Northern Rhône Key Appellations:

  • Côte-Rôtie: Renowned for its steep terraced vineyards and mineral-rich soils, Côte-Rôtie produces powerful yet elegant Syrah wines. These wines are characterized by floral aromas, black fruit notes, and a distinctive peppery spice, often complemented by a touch of Viognier to accentuate acidity and elegance.

  • Hermitage: Home to some of the world's most age-worthy wines, Hermitage offers bold, full-bodied Syrahs with flavors of dark berries, chocolate, cedar, smoked meat, with hints of black pepper. 

  • Cornas: Known for robust, deeply colored Syrah wines, Cornas showcases intense flavors of black fruit, espresso, and a distinctive earthiness. These wines are structured and capable of significant aging.

  • Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage: These appellations offer approachable and affordable expressions of Syrah compared to their prestigious neighbors. Saint-Joseph wines balance fruitiness with earthy tones, while Crozes-Hermitage exhibits more fruity aromas and softer tannins. 

  • Château Grillet and Condrieu: are two important appellations for producing intense aromatic whites made from Viognier. They are full-bodied with low acidity, showcasing aromatic profiles of apricot, jasmine, spice, orange peel, and lanolin.

My Recommendations: (though not all present in my picture)

Cave de Tain Terre d’Ivoire 2022, Saint Joseph AOC,$40

Domaine Niero Les Ravines 2022, Condrieu AOC, $72

Maison Les Alexandrins Crozes Hermitage 2022,$28.99

Equinoxe Crozes Hermitage 2022,$35

Les Vins de Vienne “Les Grappiats” 2020, Crozes Hermitage AOC,$39

Ferraton Père et Fils “Patou” 2020, Cornas AOC, $52

Ferraton Père et Fils “L'Eglantine” 2020,Côte-Rôtie AOC, $65

M. Chapoutier Chante Alouette Hermitage 2021, $135


Other outstanding producers that you can try are: Jean Louis Chave,  E.Guigal,Tardieu Laurent, Delas and Alain Voge.



Cheers! Silvina


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Monday, September 23, 2024

Santa Rita Wines from Chile

Founded in 1880, Viña Santa Rita epitomizes a harmonious blend of innovation and traditional winemaking, producing artisanal wines sourced from their expansive 3,500-hectare vineyards that span from the Limari Valley, in the north to the Maule Valley in the south. The winery produces several wine ranges, including Floresta, reviewed in this post, plus also Viña Carmen in Chile and Doña Paula in Mendoza, Argentina.

Sebastian Labbe, acclaimed as one of the top 100 enologists worldwide by Drinks Business magazine, oversees the production of Viña Santa Rita's premium wines, which are sold both domestically and worldwide in countries such as South Korea, Brazil, Ireland, and the US. The Floresta line, introduced in 2004 and revamped under Labbe's stewardship in 2017, focuses on grapes sourced from selected plots within Santa Rita's own vineyards. This approach allows for a unique interpretation of classic varieties, capturing each terroir's distinctive qualities. Labbe, advocates minimal winemaking intervention, by championing for early harvesting to preserve acidity and fruitiness, usage of natural yeasts and new oak judiciously to enhance fruit characteristics and to introduce subtle spicy notes, employing whole cluster fermentation to enhance freshness and moderate alcohols levels and opting out of fining and filtering to preserve his wines’ inherent qualities. His winemaking philosophy is aimed to highlight tension and elegance across all of his fine wines.

Floresta Chardonnay 2022 ($25) Sourced from three different plots in the renowned cool-climate Limari Valley, known for being one of the best areas to grow varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The combination of the influence of the Pacific ocean, located only 27 meters away from the vineyards plus the calcareous soils, rich in marine fossils yield an elegant white, made in Burgundian style. This is 100% Chardonnay, fully fermented in barriques with natural yeasts. 50% of it undergoes malolactic fermentation, plus up to 5 months of battonage or aging in lees.  This elegant and textured white showcases vibrant citric notes complemented by aromas of green apple and yellow pear, embodying the elegance and minerality typical of Chilean coastal Chardonnays.

Floresta Carménère 2022 ($25) is a single vineyard wine, from the Apalta Valley, the epicenter of Carménère in Colchagua. Made with fruit from 90 year old vines planted in granitic soils, this red was fermented and aged entirely in concrete vats without any oak influence. Labbe explains how his Carménère is different from others in the market, mostly due to the lack of pyrazines, so while the wine has green herbal notes, typical of this variety, it is not overtly vegetal. By closely monitoring the organoleptic maturity of the grapes, he produces a Carménère that is fruit forward, meaty and rich with blackberry, blueberry and cassis aromas. With balanced acidity and soft yet very present tannins that make this wine approachable and easy to drink, contributing further to its appeal. 

Floresta Cabernet Franc 2022 ($25), is another single vineyard red, made from fruit sourced this time, from the Alto Jahuel in Maipo, where the winery is located. This wine undergoes fermentation in concrete vats and matures for 14 months in second hand used oak barrels. The result is a ripe Cabernet Franc that is very floral and fresh, full of red fruit notes of raspberry, red cherry, cedar, and a hint of lead pencil. The palate is beefy with grippy tannins that need a couple of years to soften up, yet this was a complete (pleasant) surprise to me, as I’m not a fan of this grape variety.

Floresta Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($25) is sourced from hillside vineyards in Alto Jahuel, planted at 637 meters above sea level with a southwest exposure. This optimal location ensures ample sunlight for vine maturation, complemented by cool mountain breezes at night to preserve acidity. The wine was fermented in concrete and stainless steel vats, with natural yeasts, followed by 14 months of aging in second hand French oak. This medium plus Cabernet Sauvignon displays lovely black cherry and ripe black plums notes, with graphite, cassis and cedar hints. 

Triple C 2021 ($40) represents Viña Santa Rita's pinnacle Bordeaux-style blend, where Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure, Cabernet Franc the fruit and freshness and Carménère the tannins and spices. The blend for triple C varies each vintage. For 2021, Labbe chose a dominant Cabernet Sauvignon component (50%), complemented by Cabernet Franc (42%) and a touch of Carmenere (8%). Aged for 18 months in a blend of new and used French oak barrels, it exudes richness and structure, with layers of black fruits: cassis, blueberry, ripe blackberry all nuanced by allspice aromatics. Robust yet balanced, it promises longevity and evolving complexity over the next 15-20 years.

Finally, the last wine was Pewen Carménère 2022 ($40), sourced from 100-year-old vines rooted in granitic soils. It undergoes aging in both old and new French oak for 18 months. This is indeed a Powerbomb red, concentrated yet very refreshing.  It unveils intense flavors of blackberry, ripe plum, and dark chocolate, supported by lively acidity and remarkably silky tannins, that culminate in a long, lingering finish. Truly outstanding!

This fine selection from Viña Santa Rita exemplifies Labbe's commitment to crafting wines that celebrate Chilean terroir nuances, while showcasing the intrinsic qualities of each varietal.  Do let me know if you try any of these, by tagging me on my Insta. Until the next one, Cheers! Silvina.

#thoughtsoflawina #chileanwines #Vinasantarita #drinkchile #Winewednesday